Vanuabalavu - the little island in the Fiji group

Vanuabalavu

Some information on 'my island'

Fiji's final frontier, the Lau islands are scattered across the southwest corner of Fiji's vast archipelago like a rash of green spots on the skin of the Pacific Ocean. The 57 isles of Lau are subdevided into northern and southern Lau. Vanuabalavu and Lakeba are the only 2 of the 30 or so inhabited islands that see some visitors from time to time.

Lau first came into contact with Europeans in the 1800 when the American schooner Argo was wrecked east of Lakeba. Fijians from Oneata island looted the wreck for muskets and gunpowder, and the sailors lived with the islanders until they were killed in disputes. The whole region was dominated by the Tongan's in the mid 19th century. In 1847, Tongan nobleman Enele Ma'afu, cousin of King Taufa'ahau of Tonga, led an armada of war conoes to Vanuabalavu to investigate the killing of a preacher. After the later murder of 17 Wesleyans, Ma'afu took Vanuabalavu by force and subjected its inhabitants. The Tongans assisted in local Fijian wars in return for protection by Chief Cakobau of Bau. In 1855 Ma'afu had become a powerful force in the region and throughout much of Fiji. He was one of the signatories to the Deed of Cession to Britain and became officially recognised as Roko Tui Lau (Protector of the Tongans of Vanuabalavu) He died in 1881 and his title was passed to the Tui Nayau (Traditional Fijian Chief of Lau)

The biggest village on the island is that of Lomaloma on the southeast coast, and you will find a couple of general stores and schools, as well as a post office. In the mid 19th century Tonga conquered the island and the village of Sawana was built next to Lomaloma. Houses have rounded ends and show the influence of Tongan architecture. The first Fijian port was found here, and in its heyday Lomaloma had many hotels and shops, as well as Fiji's first botanical gardens, though little remains of its past grandeur.

Hiking is the most accessible activity and is relatively unexplored in terms of diving. The Fijian government protects the waters, and commercial fishing is prohibited in the area. Snorkeling is the next best way to experience the reefs and marine life. Sailing around the Lau group requires a special permit.

Vanuabalavu is 170 km notheast of Suva and about halfway to Tonga and has a grass airstrip. Arguably also the most scenic of Lau's islands, it is enigmatic in shape and substance. Averaging about 2km wide, it resides with 8 other smaller islands inside a barrier reef. The interior is scattered with rugged hills and pristine and sandy beaches ring the perimeter. The celebrated Bay of Islands sits in the northwest pocket and is a spectacular site for diving, kayaking and swimming. Within the limestone hills is Vale Ni Bose (House of the Gods), a gaping cave with limestone walls and a pool of crystalline water. On a clear day, the hazy green shape of Taveuni is visible across a 115km stretch of open sea.

One week after full moon in November, the people of Vanuabalavu witness the annual rising of the Balolo (tiny green and brown sea worms) At sunrise the Susui villagers on the southern most point of the island collect worms by the thousands and it is first soaked in fresh water, then packed into baskets and cooked overnight in a lovo (pit oven) The fishy-tasting baked worms are considered a delicacy.

There is also a freshwater lake near the village of Mavana, which is concidered sacred. The people of Mavana gather here annually for a fun ceremony authorised by their traditional priest. Naked except for a leaf skirt, they jump around the lake to stir up the muddy waters. This provokes the large fish known as Yawa (a type of mullet usually found in the sea) to spring into the air. It is believed that the male fish is attracted to the female villagers and thus easily trapped in the nets. Legend has it that the fish were dropped into the lake by a Tongan princess while flying over the island on her way to visit her lover on Taveuni.